Mar Pacifico - Galapagos to Marquesas

Adios Galapagos
We motored away from Galapagos just after 12pm on Tuesday 17th April in glassy conditions, with the promise of breeze.  All the sea creatures came out to say goodbye, including hundreds of sea turtles, just biding their time peacefully on the water’s surface.  Slowly we motored into the sunset, heading southwest towards the trades.  It was the start of the lunar cycle and with no moon, the night sky and the glassy ocean became one star covered mass, like we were floating through space (to the sound of a diesel engine).

The wind did not come in on Day 2, so we continued to motor.  With a slight cross swell we all felt a little uncomfortable and laid low until our bodies adjusted to passage life.  Day 3 was 19th April, Hayley’s 12th birthday.  We were hoping she would get the trade winds for her birthday, but alas...  We made the best of it with pancakes for breakfast, lots of presents to open and no school for the day.  We played games and watched Moana.  All meals were on Hayley’s request, so we had corn chips and guacamole for lunch and rissoles with chippies for dinner, with caramel flan instead of a birthday cake.  The trades didn’t completely disappoint and delivered their 10 knot gift just before 9pm.  Engines off, peace at last!

Birthday sunrise

Birthday loot

Birthday cake
 Friday morning (Day 5) we got the spinnaker flying as early as we could and took it down around sunset at 6:30pm.  We were still heading south (and west) to get to the stronger trades and we noticed that the sea temperature was higher again (after Galapagos) and the nights had warmed up accordingly.  The boat was also dryer, provided there were no rain squalls, with no condensation or dew forming on the decks overnight.  And so it went for the next five days.  The wind strengthened each day from 10 to 12 knots, to 14 to 17 knots, then 17 to 20 knots, so we sailed at 8-9 knots boat speed – woo hoo!  We never quite got a 200 mile day, but we got close.  We settled into our new watch pattern of 2-4-4-2 (8pm-10pm; 10pm -2am; 2am-6am; 6am-8am).  The girls worked hard on their school work, except on Sundays which was a day of rest and recreation, as much as you can on a boat in the middle of the ocean.  We celebrated the 500 NM mark with a bag of chippies. We had no luck fishing (too fast?), but we did have a boobie (red footed we think) flying around the boat for a few hours, swooping and diving for fish.  Beautiful to watch. 

Sunset - Day 7
On Day 8 (Tuesday 24th) we saw our first boats for days: another sail boat with kids, Moya, on AIS only; and a fishing boat that was not on AIS until it magically appeared when it was about 0.3 NM away, a little too close for comfort.  The boat looked so uncomfortable, rolling around in the swell.  We were very glad to be on RAFTKIN.

One week out we spot a fishing boat
 We commemorated ANZAC Day on board and spent the day doing the ANZAC work units prepared by SDEPS so that we could learn more about it.  We baked ANZAC cookies for morning tea and sent the recipe on to our friends crossing the Pacific with us via satellite email.  Tonight, we dropped the spinnaker and set up wing on wing for the first time this trip, which gave us a better angle to the west. 
Anzac cookies on ANZAC Day
Day 10 - Quiz Day
Day 10 (Thursday) was Kids Challenge day.  Hayley and Megan had extra motivation today to get their school work completed, as at 2pm the Big Kids (from Dol Selene) were sending out quiz questions via email.  They were so excited when the email came in and got stuck into answering the questions straight away, wanting to get the answers submitted as quickly and correctly as possible to be in the running for an icecream.  Perhaps I need to motivate boat school with icecream also?  We crossed the halfway mark tonight and started celebrations with roast chicken dinner with chips and coleslaw.  We had tinned peaches and custard for dessert – such a treat!


Dave and Hayley keep busy with chess

Megan creates a world for beanie boos on the window sill

Halfway by distance celebration dinner

The next four days we had good breeze and made excellent progress, covering another 500 miles.  We were very excited to make radio contact with La Cigale and the kids talked over the radio a few times whilst within range.  We tried to do an exercise routine every other day for about ½ an hour.  It was so funny when the girls come out looking like ONJ, ‘let’s get physical’.  Its all about the outfit.  Hayley surprised us by getting her cello out and doing some practice on the ‘back deck’ (cockpit).  So lovely to hear her playing, even when she is a bit rusty.  We had freshly caught mahi mahi for dinner on Saturday night, unfortunately our only fish on the crossing.  As we were in contact with La Cigale, we decided to have a cross boat movie night, both boats watching Groundhog Day.  Much to our amusement, Francis likened the movie to sailing across the Pacific!

Day 11 - Lets get physical

Cello practice at sea

 Day 12 - finally a fish!
Monday 30th April things seemed to slow for a day as the breeze dropped to 12-15 knots, directly from behind.  Not fun in a catamaran.  On Tuesday (Day 15) we decided to head north towards what we hoped to be more wind.  At least we could use the spinnaker and get more speed and we continued on this path on Wednesday and Thursday under similar conditions.  The conditions were so good, Hayley and Megan worked hard at school to try and get ahead a few days (including Saturdays!) so that when we reached land they could take a few days off.  They were particularly focussed on Tuesday, because there was a Kids Challenge in the afternoon, thanks to Dol Selene. 

The days stretched on long ahead of us, then suddenly the sky was changing and it was time to sort out dinner, pull the spinnaker down, set the sails to wing on wing and continue west into the night.  Sailing at night as the moon started to wane from full was just gorgeous.  On the clear nights it rose out of the sea a glowing fireball of orange, then transformed into its familiar silvery hue.

Day 13 - Good day sunshine

Day 13 - Sunday beading fun

Day 14 - odd jobs like fishing line repairs

Day 18 - May the fourth be with you.  Hayley and Megan had extra incentive to work hard at school today.  As soon as they were finished, they could start on their Star Wars marathon.  We had our first rain for two weeks, just two small sprinkles – enough to get the decks wet and turn the black dust picked up in Galapagos into mud.  Unfortunately, the rain brought only minimal increase in pressure, but the wind went to the north 20 degrees! 

Day 18 - 500 NM to go!
 Things slowed down considerably on Saturday 5th May with the wind around 8-12 knots, up and down all day.  The direction was such that there was not much benefit in putting the big sail up because it would send us in the wrong direction not much faster than sailing wing on wing in the right direction.  Its so peaceful out here and we are more relaxed than on the Atlantic crossing, so it is a bit easier to just go with what the wind gives us.  By late this afternoon the wind dropped below 8 knots and we were barely doing 4 knots, so we reluctantly switched engines on.  Having another boat on our tail might have been a motivation also.  “It’s not a race until you get started”, thank you Brian.  We chatted to the folks on Sitka, whom we had met briefly in Bonaire – nice to make human contact again.  The wind filled in again around 10pm, so the engines were off before midnight.  Slow, but peaceful.

The sun rose and greeted a cheeky newly 10 year old on Sunday 6th May (Day 20).  Happy birthday to Megan (and to cousin Patrick!).  There were presents to unwrap, pink pancakes for breakfast and a solid morning session of playing with new (and old) toys for Hayley and Megan.  We love Sundays, especially birthday Sundays.  We enjoyed delicious chocolate cake for afternoon tea, followed by a dance-off to the Ramones and Radio Birdman, then a little Avrill.  Megan’s choice for dinner was bacon and roast potatoes, with a side of salad.  We were lucky to have one last lettuce.

Day 20 - cheeky birthday girl

Opening the birthday loot

Pink pancakes for birthday breakfast

A girl's got to have chocolate cake
Land was in sight as the sky lightened on Monday 7th May.  Fatu Hiva rose green and grey up out of the ocean, and slowly drew nearer and came into focus.  With the best breeze we’d had in days we sailed passed the northern most point of Fatu Hiva and after just over 20 days at sea, dropped anchor in the safe harbour of Hanavave.  Four happy x 2 ocean crossers.

Day 21 - Fatu Hiva approaches

Sails down after just under 21 days at sea

Heading into anchor in Bay of Virgins, Fatu HIva

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