Va'vau, Kingdom of Tonga

The dark shadow of the Va’vau, Tonga lay at the end of the long, silvery trail of moonlight dancing across the water.  By the time the sun had risen we were so close we could see the sea cliffs and islands that make up the Va’Vau island group.  After a spinnaker start to our passage from Niue to Tonga, we motored to the finish as the breeze died out.  One advantage of motoring in is that the water becomes glassy and you can see straight down through the water.  We slowly motored in through the main harbour on Friday 24^th August and tied up to the customs doc at around 9:30am to start the check in process.  There was much paperwork, but it only took about 45 minutes and we were done.  We motored out into the harbour and found a mooring ball, hooked up and sighed.  Made it to Tonga.

Queuing for the customs dock in Neiafu

The Va’Vau Group in Tonga is an amazing cruising ground.  If you look at an aerial photo it looks like an upside-down hand, with the main island being the palm of the hand at the top (north) and the smaller islands stretching down like fingers to the south.  These fingers create dozens of little anchorages suitable for varying weather conditions, some for light, stable conditions and plenty for strong wind conditions offering great shelter.  We were fortunate to be still travelling with Dol Selene who have spent a lot of time in Tonga and ensured we saw a good sample of what the islands have to offer, given our brief stay.

Saturday morning (August 25) I was up early to go for a SUP with Carli (Yonder), before dinghying in to market to get some fresh food.  Back on RAFTKIN the kids got some school work done, then went out to collect all the kids in the anchorage, including Will and Sam from Bonaire, Fynn and Stella from Blue Zulu and Aiden from Tranquilo.  They all ran riot on RAFTKIN while I went into the Mango Café to get a coffee and some wifi and start uploading their school work.   It was an awesome feeling to get it all done.  After a quick change back on RAFTKIN, we went back in for dinner and to watch the Rugby (AUS v NZL) at Mango with Dol Selene and Barefeet.

Boat kids hang out in Neiafu Harbour
(Clockwise - Megan, Hayley, Aiden, Sam, Stella, Fynn, Will)

Pet pigs roam the front lawn of a house in Neiafu

On Sunday 26^th August we dinghied into town early to go to the morning church service in the local Catholic church.  The singing in church is something not to be missed.  The dress code is strict - knees should be covered for both men and women.  It was wonderful to watch all the families arrive for church in their Sunday best, many with traditional wraps around their waist over the top of their very western clothing.  When the singing started it took my breath away and all the hairs on my neck stood up.  The whole cathedral was filled with the sound of many human voices all singing in harmony.  Just beautiful.

We left Neiafu at lunchtime to head out to Kenutu Island, on the eastern side of the island group.  It was a long upwind sail, so we cheated and motored all the way.  There was a tricky zig-zag pass through the reef where it was quite shallow, so we were happy to have timed it for high tide.  We set our anchor in the lee of the island, a short distance from a beautiful sandy beach.  In no time the kids were on the beach to meet the other kids from the anchorage.  They all went wild, using charcoal from the fire to paint their faces, running up and down the beach with sticks and building a hut from palm fronds.  Later we built a bonfire and cooked sausages on the beach as the sun went down and the tide came in.

Boat kids (Megan and Will) go wild at Kenutu Island

Banded sea snake climbs over rocks on Kenutu Island

Sitting pretty in Kenutu Island anchorage

We spent another two days at Kenutu.  It was great as there were many kid boats.  Everyone had school in the morning, so there was an easy pattern to the day, with school in the morning and beach exploration in the afternoon, bonfire on the beach at sundown.  Aiden from Tranquilo was in the anchorage.  Aiden and Megan are in the same class at SDEPS, so they worked together on their English unit on coral reefs.  They worked so well together and got more done in a couple of mornings that we could ever achieved on our own.  Hayley and Megan had used their birthday money to buy an inflatable beach toy each, which certainly helped to expedite school so they could head to the beach to play.   Dave and I even got a chance to get the windsurfer out and had a few great sails out from the anchorage, sailing by turtles and sea snakes.

Rock platform at Kenutu Island before low tide

All the toys come out at Kenutu Island anchorage

Boat kids do mini-Olympics at Kenutu Island

Wednesday 29^th August we decided to move on from Kenutu, motoring back through the zig zag pass and around to Tapana Island with Tranquilo, Dol Selene and Barefeet.  As we were anchoring the familiar sight of a Nautitech 40 (La Cigale) came into the bay heralded by squeals of delight from Hayley and Megan.  Once anchored, the girls and I went straight over for a cup of tea and welcomed our friends to Tonga.  As the sun set we enjoyed a bonfire on the beach to celebrate an ARC 2017 S-Pontoon Pacific Division reunion, as La Cigale, Tranquilo and Raftkin were all reunited for the first time since St Lucia.

Fun times moving anchorage on RAFTKIN

ARC kids enjoy sundowners on the beach at Tapana Island anchorage
(Photo by La Cigale)

We spent the next two days enjoying this beautiful anchorage with many other family boats, including Pelizeno, Blue Zulu, Bonaire and Counting Stars.  So many kids!  There was just enough breeze across the bay to get the windsurfer out.  I got quite a bit of practise in upwind sailing...  As we headed into the beach for sundowners on Thursday evening we noticed that a grassfire had taken hold on the narrow peninsular of land forming one side of the bay.  It was wild and as the wind strengthened so did the fire.  Fortunately, it had nowhere to go except the water and it burnt itself out by morning.

Friday afternoon we were invited over to Dol Selene for a quiet celebration with Pelizeno and Barefeet.  Eight years previous Dol Selene had left from Tonga and now the circle was complete.  It was just the adults.  Hayley and Megan stayed on RAFTKIN to watch a movie with Stella (Blue Zulu); Isla and Meryn (Counting Stars).  Dol Selene had been all dressed up with the 50 flags of the world Dol has been to on their voyage.  It was champagne all around as we celebrated their successful circumnavigation, followed by too many rum & cokes.  A wonderful evening and we felt privileged to be able to celebrate with them.

SUP time at Tapana Island anchorage (Photo by Pelizeno)

Congratulations Dol Selene on your circumnavigation
(Photo by Pelizeno)

When Saturday morning dawned there was a perfect glass-out.  Megan and I were up early and we headed out on the paddle boards.  Megan paddled away with Isla from Counting Stars, but Lisa soon joined me and we paddled right around Tapana Island and discovered hidden beaches and stunning coral bommies through the clear water.

Mid-morning we left Tapana Island anchorage and headed over to Blue Lagoon around the western side of the island group.  There was a narrow pass in the reef that gave us access to the pretty lagoon.  At high tide it was a bit rocky as the swell washed over the reef making a small chop in the lagoon.  As the tide went out the lagoon calmed and was perfectly still.  About 10 hours of calm before the rocking started up again, to remind us high tide was on its way.

Megan enjoys a new seat on trip to Blue Lagoon

Once in the lagoon the kids went wakeboarding with Pete.  Dave, Lisa and I went for a snorkel, but I think we went to the wrong side of the lagoon.  We got back to RAFTKIN and soon were joined by Dol Selene, Pelizeno and Barefeet for a BBQ.  Hayley, Megan and Zenon presented Gail and Brian with a ‘Certificate for Completing a Circumnavigation’, something Hayley had put together the day we arrived in Tonga.  It was officially signed by the three kids too.  Obviously very important documentation!

Hayley wake boarding at Blue Lagoon

Hayley, Megand and Zenon present Gail and Brian with an 'official'
Certicate for Completing a Circumnavigation

Woke up on Blue Lagoon and had pancakes for breakfast because it was Sunday and Fathers Day.  We took the dinghy into the beach to explore and had a running race that nearly killed us all.  Too long on a boat!  We walked to the other side of the island and found another beautiful beach.  Back on RAFTKIN, the tide was coming in and with it the rockiness, so it was time to leave.

The day had become quite windy and overcast.  We motored the short distance over to the Coral Garden, a large reef between two islands protecting another lagoon.  You can anchor in the lagoon, but access to the coral is from the side we were on, so we took it in turns to jump off the boat and snorkel whilst the other adult did circles on RAFTKIN.  The coral was beautiful.  We haven’t seen anything that vibrant since the Tuomotus and even then, some of the blues and reds were something I haven’t seen before.  Just beautiful.  It was pretty exhilarating swimming in such deep, open water between the boat and the reef.

Hayley at the spectacular coral gardens

We continued motoring along a stunning cliff line dotted with sea caves and crevices, past the hidden entrance to Mariners Cave and through a narrow pass between two islands.  We motored across the bay, past Port Maurelle and into a large gap behind Mala Island where we found a great anchorage.   A fun afternoon windsurfing and exploring the little bays and islands.  We liked it so much we spent the next three days in this peaceful anchorage, catching up on school in the mornings and getting into watersports in the afternoon. 

Windsurfing at Mala Island anchorage

On Monday afternoon we organised for Pelizeno, Dol Selene and Barefeet to join us on RAFTKIN for a sea cave adventure.  We motored over to Swallows Cave first.  We took turns to do circles in RAFTKIN while the rest of the adults and the kids jumped in and swam into the large sea cave.  There was a large slot that opened the cave up to the sea and the afternoon sun filtered in lighting up the inside of the cave.  Inside the cave there were schools of juvenile fish forming large ribbons that wove there way around the cave.  As we looked out the cave we could see RAFTKIN doing her circle work. 

Entrance to Swallows Cave

RAFTKIN and crew from inside Swallows

Ribbons of fish inside Swallows

We returned to RAFTKIN and moored back across the way we had come on Sunday, through the narrow pass to just outside the entrance to Mariners Cave.  The entrance to Mariners Cave is below sea level, so it requires firstly knowledge of the exact location of the entrance followed by trust in your ability to duck dive and swim several meters underwater to gain access to the cave.  Once inside there is an air pocket where you can breath and swim around in the eerie blue light filtering through the submarine entrance of the cave.  Once everyone who wanted to have a go had been in and out, we returned to RAFTKIN pumped on adrenalin and rapture from what we had seen and experienced.  

Hayley swims out of Mariners Cave

From the inside looking out of Mariners Cave

The boys on RAFTKIN on return trip from Swallows-Mariners

The girls on RAFTKIN on return trip from Swallows-Mariners

On Tuesday afternoon we decided to head back to Swallows Cave via dinghy this time and check out the sea cave next to Swallows, called False Swallows Cave.  We had been told that inside False Swallows Cave there was an underwater access to a secret cave.  This was less deep and therefore something that could be more easily achieved, especially for the younger kids.  Another great afternoon exploring the caves, the kids swimming back and forth between the main cave and the secret cave many times.  Back in Swallows Cave we were once again captivated by the swirling ribbons of fish swimming through the cave.  I surprised myself when I got the confidence to swim through the second entrance/exit to the cave, a small passage through the rock, about 6-7m below water level.

Entrance to False Swallows Cave

Megan swims out of the secret cave in False Swallows Cave

Wednesday morning was a tough session of school, broken up by another brilliant wakeboarding session courtesy of Peter.  Later in the morning we had word that La Cigale and Shawnigan would be in the neighbouring anchorage, so with school completed we lifted anchor and motored around to Port Maurelle, a beautiful bay with a long sandy beach.  The kids enjoyed catching up with all the boat kids they had met all afternoon, followed by a Star Wars movie night on RAFTKIN for the kids.  Mum and dad hid over on La Cigale (anchored just behind).

One last wakeboard with Pelizeno at Mala Island anchorage

Meg rides in the dinghy as we motor around to Port Maurelle

Last anchorage sunset in Port Maurelle

We lifted anchor at first light on Thursday morning and motored our way back into Neiafu Harbour to wait for fuel, clear customs and prepare for our departure from Tonga.  It was a long day on Tonga Time, waiting for fuel to arrive at 10am, then 11am, then 12pm and finally at 3pm.  It was a busy day for the fuel company as the following day it was shutting for the day for a funeral, so all of Friday’s deliveries had been crammed into Thursday.  By the time we got off the customs/ fuel dock all the mooring balls in the harbour had been taken, so we settled at anchor on the opposite side of the harbour, before heading in for our last supper at Mango Café with Pelizeno and Dol Selene, as well as Yonder and Blue Zulu.  

Friday was a a very hard day, with some difficult goodbyes to say to boats we had been sailing with for the better of part of six months.  We have been so fortunate to have experienced the incredible places we have been in the company of excellent friends.  Early afternoon we lifted anchor and motored out of Neiafu Harbour and back out to sea, bound for Fiji.  As we sailed away from Va’vau a mother whale with her playful calf swam by, the calf splashing about and tail slapping as if to say farewell.  How lucky we are!

Girls breakfast at Mango Cafe
(Clockwise - Hayley, Isabelle, Megan, Stella)

 Screen printing our T-Shirts at Coffee and T