Panama to Galapagos

Approach to Las Perlas (Pearl Islands)

Las Perlas are a group of islands about 40 NM from Panama City.  It's a good spot to stop and clean the boat and a good place to wait for a weather window before leaving for Galapagos.  It just makes sense to stop here, so after leaving Panama City behind, we motored and then (when the wind came in) sailed out to Las Perlas.  The wind direction was perfect and gave us the opportunity to try out our new asymmetrical spinnaker.  We were so happy with its performance and relieved our ‘investment’ decision was a good one.

The wildlife appeared to multiply exponentially as we approached Las Perlas.  There were birds and dolphins and whales and turtles.  We arrived at our first anchorage off Isla Chapera, in the late afternoon.  Giant, 3m dolphins swam with us through the channel between the islands.  It had been a great sailing day.  No fish for dinner, but we enjoyed sundowners with Dol Selene and Pelizeno on RAFTKIN.  Its good to be out of the city.

 Birds are working, but no fish for RAFTKIN!

Dolphins welcome us in to Las Perlas

Sundowners on RAFTKIN - its good to be out of the city

RAFTKIN at Isla Chapera, Las Perlas (Photo by Dol Selene)

Beach at  Isla Chapera anchorage

One of the downsides of Las Perlas at this time of year is the algae bloom that surrounds the islands and beyond, making visibility underwater poor.  This coincides with the season where jellyfish are prolific, so swimming is a risky business.  We decided to head further west through the island group to see if we could find an anchorage with less jellyfish, as we needed to get in the water to clean our boats.  There was no wind, so it was an all-day motor.  When we arrived at the selected anchorage it wasn’t what we were expecting, then some locals who came out to say hello pointed out all the places where there were crocodiles known to be living.

The following day we motored another couple of hours further west and anchored off a beautiful sandy beach where there was a bit of surf, some rock pools and an overhang (complete with bats!) to explore, and no crocodiles.  La Cigale had caught up with us and all the kids had a ball playing and running and swimming and at times arguing together (imagine!).  It was great, but too soon we had to leave.  The weather window opened and we had to go through.  It looked like we would have 6 days of sailing, getting to Galápagos just in time for Easter. 

Sunrise over Isla Del Ray, Punta Gorda, Las Perlas

The lovely Punta Gorda anchorage

A beach with sand and surf!  Punta Gorda

Who needs a playground?

Chilling out in the spa with La Cigale

Games on the beach

We lifted anchor at day break on Saturday 24^th March and sailed out of Las Perlas with the rising sun.  The breeze was good and we got the spinnaker up straight away.  It continued like this for the next few days.  We followed the current south making good speed (9-11 knots during the day with the spinnaker up) to Malpelo Island, which stood like a fortress out of the sea.  There we turned right and started heading west to Galapagos.

Spinnaker run out of Las Perlas (Photo by Dol Selene)

Mango at sea

Sunset on Day 2 - time to get the spinnaker down

Boat school - hard at work

We had sailed faster than we had expected and the wind hadn’t died out as was predicted, so by Wednesday (Day 5) we were approaching the equator.  This crossing was approached with great enthusiasm as we were to have a ceremony, followed by a party to celebrate our transition from Pollywogs to Shellbacks.  We made crowns for all and a special cape for Dave, who as Captain and in lieu of there being any Shellbacks present on RAFTKIN, was to assume the role of King Neptune and initiate the new Shellbacks.

Preparations for the equator crossing

We all gathered at the helm station from about midday and watched the minutes slowing fall down as we got closer and closer.  We counted down from 0.20 minutes north, then saw the latitude change from N to S at approx. 12:30pm (Panama time).  There was lots of whoop whooping and cheering as we crossed the imaginary line.  We went downstairs and Dave became King Neptune and initiated the rest of us as Shellbacks (no longer Pollywogs).  

Zero degrees north

WE ARE IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE!!

Strange ritual - Megan becomes a Shellback

RAFTKIN crew are shellbacks!

Then we had a feast of chippies, muffins, pistachio nuts, cheese and crackers and some 100s and 1000s biscuits sent over by Nan and Pop.  Dave and I celebrated with a wee rum and coke (aarrrggh), which was possibly an error so early in the day, especially after 5 night watches.  We were both a bit sleepier than usual in the afternoon.

We sailed down the west coast of San Cristobal in darkness.  Clouds had rolled in during the afternoon and the wind finally died out on Wednesday night, leaving us to motor the last few hours.  We paused a couple of miles outside Wreck Harbour to wait for daylight so that we could enter the harbour safely.  As the sun rose over the land we saw before us an island of green and grey.  Galapagos calling.

Good morning Galapagos 

Morning chill - arrival in Galapagos