Bequia – Mayreau - Tobago Cays

We sailed out of Martinique with heavy hearts having just said goodbye to Justine and Chris.  The sun was setting as we sailed across the St Lucia Strait, when a family of 3 dolphins appeared swimming ahead of our bow, as if to remind us of how lucky we are.  Suddenly the mood lifted and we were ready for the night sail ahead and the next part of our adventure.

We had a steady sail down the coast of Saint Lucia and then Saint Vincent, with the lights from the townships sparkling white and gold, like they were competing with the stars overhead.  The wind died in the early hours of the morning, so we ended up motoring the last two hours into Bequia to ensure we made it in time for the festivities – the beach party of Dan (from Nereida) and Hilmer (from Indian Summer).  We arrived in time for morning coffee and were welcomed by Sisi, Hampus and Hilmer, who quickly jumped ship and joined us for coffee. 

As soon as we were anchored and had the kayak inflated, Hayley and Megan head off to find the rest of their friends in the anchorage.  By 2pm we were on the yellow sandy beach near Jack’s Bar enjoying party cakes, the warm, clear water and good company.  To our surprise we also bumped into Antares (from Papagayo anchorage) who just happened to be in Bequia.  We hope to see them again down the track, perhaps in Grenada.

Happy birthday Hilmer and Dan!!

Cake!!

Beach kids party fun

Bo and Hayley meet Gecko

It wouldn’t be an S-Pontoon reunion without a gathering at La Cigale.  Later that evening after a quick bite to eat for dinner, we head over in the dinghy for a few drinks and a catch up.  Sisi taught Lucy and I how to make sourdough, thanks to sourdough culture shared by Tintomara.   The kids continued their SFF (Sailing Friends Forever) planning for 2029, when they intend to reunite and sail around the world starting with the ARC Rally.

The next morning (10 January) we went for a walk into town along the path from Jack’s Bar.  Isabelle (La Cigale) and Bo (Nereida) joined us, so the kids chatted all the way in to town and all the way back to the dinghy dock.  In the afternoon we went out to the reef just outside the anchorage to snorkel and explore – lots of fish and good coloured corals.

Making sourdough - from left, Sisi, Lucy and Tracy

ARC Kids Club reunion

Lucy and Sisi spent the morning organising a final BBQ on the beach before all the ARC boats separated north and south.  They contacted Alex, who is well known for his lobsters, and the evening was sorted.  At the allotted time, the heavens opened so the beach BBQ was cancelled and La Cigale graciously allowed us all on board - Indian Summer, Infinity, Quisset, Kapalei, Raftkin and of course La Cigale added up to 12 adults and 14 children, plus Alex and Becky who cooked the amazing lobster dish with rice and salad.  The kids had a ball, at first taking over the forward decks, then later claiming the aft and sending the adults forward to escape their noise.  What a great night with an amazing group of people.

All kids on deck for the grand finale

Butter! Alex & Becky cook lobster and prepare salads on La Cigale

Time for dinner

Dish washing team

Intense SFF planning on La Cigale

Thursday 11^th the four of us jumped in the dinghy and did the rounds in the anchorage to say goodbye, then it was time for us to move on.  Sadly our schedule is tight as we need to be in Grenada by 16^th January.  We sailed on to Mayreau, en-route to Tobago Cays.  As we came into the anchorage at Saline Bay, the familiar grey hull of Pelizeno, from New Zealand came into view – where there is an anchorage, there is an ARC boat.

Sail to Mayreau

Pelizeno spotted at anchor

Friday morning we took the dinghy to the beach to have a look around the island.  We climbed to the highest point, all noticing how little walking we had done since leaving the Canary Islands.  We were rewarded at the top by a view over the Grenadines, including across to Tobago Cays.  We spent the afternoon with Pelizeno snorkelling off the small reef near the anchorage, jumping off Pelizeno’s boom into the water and swinging off the rope swing.  Too much fun and with the wind up we decided to delay moving on to Tobago Cays one more day.  As the sun began to set we were re-joined by La Cigale.  We soon headed over for a ‘pot luck’ dinner at La Cigale.

Mayreau looking to Tobago Cays

Wifi stop in Mayreau

Beach at Mayreau

 Fun on Pelizeno

Crazy kid

Jump rope

A bright blue day dawned on Saturday 13^th and we lifted anchor to motor the short distance around to Tobago Cays.  Such a beautiful place to be – postcard Caribbean.  We anchored nearby Baradel (nicknamed ‘Turtle Island’ by us as it was near the turtle area).  Within moments of setting the anchor we were organised to go snorkelling.  When we jumped in it was like being in a large aquarium with fish, manta rays and turtles.  We swam around until our fingers turned pruney, then rested on the beach at Baradel. Climbing up the small hill on the island we saw iguanas sunning themselves.

In the afternoon Indian Summer arrived (some goodbyes are short).  The kids played all afternoon, kayaking between boats, swimming and having fun. 

Motoring in to Tobago Cays from Mayreau

Kids kayak straight over to La Cigale, ready to snorkel

Lots of turtles swimming around near the turtle area

Close encounter with a turtle :-)

Sunday morning we jumped in the dinghy straight after breakfast and head out to the reef to snorkel.  Each time we go snorkeling we are amazed by what we see.  The water is clear and warm, the fish are abundant and the coral is colourful.  We found two different places to snorkel – even Megan braved the water and enjoyed what there was to see.  Fortunately, she did not spot the reef shark that was swimming slowly towards the group when it realised that it did not want to swim with humans and made a sharp right turn out to sea.

Under the sea

Under the sea

At some point in time there has to be the last night.  As we were leaving first thing Monday morning, this would be our last night with La Cigale and Pelizeno for a month or so, and our last night with Indian Summer until we meet again perhaps in Sweden or Australia.  We gathered on Raftkin for a pot luck BBQ and movie night.  The kids had pancakes for dinner then all bundled downstairs into the main cabin to watch a movie.  The adults enjoyed a progressive dinner, as the small Weber BBQ could not cook everything in one go.

Pancakes and BBQ on Raftkin

This is serious Lego time

The lovely Isabelle joined us for a sleepover and the three girls all slept in Hayley’s room.  I am not sure how much sleep they got!  For a treat we had bacon and eggs for breakfast before it was time to really say goodbye.  Goodbyes are best done quickly and preferably from a small dinghy so that you can whiz away before you have a chance to get too sad.  The girls were remarkably calm after saying goodbye to the friends.  When queried, Megan responded, ‘Its OK mum, I know we will see La Cigale again soon in San Blas or Panama, and I know I will see Indian Summer and Infinity again one day too.’  What they have learned in such a short time.

Bacon and eggs for breakfast after a sleepover

Farewell Tobago Cays and S-Pontoon crew

And off we sailed again.  Next island – Grenada.